Motherhood

   For the first two days, I had the same duties as the 5 other volunteers: preparing food, cleaning cages, checking on animals and the like. After I was settled in, I was pulled aside in a meeting with Estie, Sam, and Daryl, where they proposed I become mom to Robby, the infant baboon at the center. I was thrilled, and ended spending a day playing with him so he could get used to me. Sadly, Robby was suspected of having an illness, so I am no longer able to care for him. Instead, I am now caring for Snookie, a baby vervet, around the clock.
   Last night was my first night with Snookie. She's quite a beauty, and has a much prettier face than some vervet babies. I have to stay inside most of the time, for if the wild vervets saw me, they would attack. She gets bottle fed every 3 hours, though she thankfully slept through the night (starting at 1 am)! The rest of the girls seem a bit put out that they had not been asked to do such an exciting thing, though they do enjoy "sitting" for Snookie occasionally.
  The center itself is beautiful, with lots of trees and the sounds of birds follow you everywhere. It is gated, and looks a bit like a prison at night when all the security precautions are in place, though I'm happy to know I'm safe. There is a spar not far away, and I have absolutely fallen in love with its chocolates!

Well...

Internet is a bit hard to come by here, although I still should be able to post every week or so. I reached the wildlife center safely, and because of my previous experience, I have been entrusted the care of a baby vervet monkey. Some of the other animals here include: a baby baboon (was mine for a day, that story later), LOTS of baby birds, tortoises, storks, and many more. Wish me luck with my new baby, and that I at least get a bit of sleep!

-Becca

Victoria Street Market

   To give you an idea as to how it feels to walk around in Durban, imagine you are a celebrity. Everyone looks at you, some approach and try to start a conversation, some are too nervous to approach but talk about you in hushed voices. You get compliments wherever you go, especially from the men, things such as "Hello beautiful,"  "Pretty dress my lady," and "I love your hair!"  I was instantly recognized as an American, with my light skin, blonde hair, sunglasses, and blue eyes. I got several calls of "Hello baby! Beautiful, come inside, I know you must be from America!" Somehow, none of the comments I received the entire day carried the same inappropriate undertones usually present in the comments I receive from American men, rather they seemed friendly, even if their motive was to get me to buy something.
   The market is certainly something to see, and smell! The streets, both sides, for several blocks, are lined with stalls and shops. There were fruit stalls, vegetable stalls, clothing stalls, wholesale stalls, as well as several stalls that contained various animal body parts such as hooves, skulls, skins, and buckets of organs. One of the nearby buildings contained a fish and meat market. The smell was very overpowering, and the sights a bit shocking. I saw many types of fish, cuts of meat, and also several less appetizing things such as tripe and intact goat heads. Needless to say, I only spent a few brief minutes inside. Also common were grocery stores which I quite enjoyed browsing. Throughout the day, I purchased a flavored water, water, a strange chocolate bar, wafer cookies, and frosted flakes (called frosties here, but Tony the tiger is still on the box!). I wanted to buy a mango, but didn't fancy trying to eat the fruit while walking around, so I settled on some nectarines instead (4 for 5 rand, about 75 cents).
   My original reason for wanting to go to the market was to buy an Indian sari, which I am happy to say I accomplished. There were several shops selling saris, but I finally settled on "The Sari Experts." Inside, as most shops I have visited here, I was followed as if by a hawk. There was a large selection, but I finally settled on a very pretty purple pattern for only 129 R (around 17 dollars). Little did I know, they don't actually sell the cholis (the cropped bloused that go under the sari) but that they give you enough fabric to make one. Because of this, I also bought a choli lining, and plan to get it made at home, or maybe even in Yellowwood if I can find a good seamstress.
   Along with the fish and meat market,  there was also an indoor craft market which contained the typical African tourist crafts. I was interested in the beadwork though I thought I might be able to get a bit cheaper elsewhere. I did however end up buying a beautiful painting of elephants walking.

 The Indian woman running the shop was very nice, and gave me a reasonable price to start off with, whereas the previous stalls I had gone to would start insanely high and go down "to give me a special deal." I ended up paying 25 R (around 3 dollars) and am very happy with it. I plan to buy several more paintings as gifts, and to decorate my room. The colors are so vivid and beautiful, I was very happy with my purchase.
   Before going the market, I was cautioned by Teeze  not to carry much money, or a visible bag. I had also heard stories of theft and mugging in that area, so I was quite cautious and brought my moneybelt and passport pouch with just some chapstick and a bit of money. By the end of the day though, I felt very comfortable and safe, everyone was friendly and I felt no threats at all. Of course, I was followed several times by men trying to start a conversation and show me around, though they were not overly clingy and easy to shake off if I wanted to. I was also grabbed by the hand once by a hawker, though I quickly walked away and he did not follow. I enjoyed talking to the shop owners, as well as various other people on the streets. I carried on a 20 minute conversation with a  two year old boy who knew little English, though was very talkative (in Zulu) and endearing. I ended up giving him one of my wafer cookies and he gave me the biggest, brightest smile. I wish I would not have been afraid to take my camera as there were so many things I wanted to take pictures of.
   Tonight is my last night at the hostel, and I arranged to meet my mentor at the Pinetown spar tomorrow for my trip to CROW. I am sad to leave, as I have felt very comfortable and happy here, though I am excited for the next part of my trip and getting to work with the animals.

-Becca

South African Coat of Arms

   During my first ride through Durban, I noticed that this same coat of arms (above) appeared on many of the buildings. Pictured are two animals: the springbok and oryx. Written below the shield is "Ex Unitate Vires" which essentially in Latin means "Strength from Unity." After doing a bit of research, I discovered that this is the old South African coat of arms, recently it has been replaced with a much less medieval-looking crest (right) that replaces the Latin motto with a phrase in one of the Bantu languages. The original crest contains imagery that represents the four original areas of South Africa;the maiden represents the Cape of Good Hope, the wildebeest represents Natal, the orange tree represents the Orange River Colony, and wagon represents Transvaal.
   I have also seen several other crests with Latin phrases including: "E Caelo Scientia," "Agricultura," and "Corde ac Manu." I wouldn't want to deprive Mr. Day, Danny, or the Dream Team from translating these phrases, so I won't be provided the translations of those.

Ubuthongo, Ubuthongo, Ubuthongo (Sleep, Sleep, Sleep!)

Today was a nice, slow, and lazy day. I had planned to go back to The Pavilion, but that didn't exactly work. I woke early, around 6. At that time, no one else was up other than the cleaning lady and the animals. I had the chance to talk to a couple of people on facebook, but then my laptop battery was running low and I decided to copy my roommate, Simon from Scotland, and go back to sleep. Next thing I knew, I heard Simon walking down the steps saying, "You still asleep? Its already two!" Groggily I got up, read for a bit, and then went walking outside.
   I haven't seen much wildlife yet, though I had noticed a couple of stray cats around Durban, as well as heard large amounts of birds, only having sighted a couple. I went down to the little pond at the hostel and saw it contained fish that looked similar to a bluegill though thinner and more colorful. I also noticed a group of tiny tadpoles as well as water-bugs. I am kept company by the resident pets, and had a feline bedmate last night. He is such a funny tabby with big greenish eyes, and a penchant for begging for meat scraps (he did get the fatty parts of my lamb chops!).
  Along with the cat, the dogs are sweeties but are not allowed inside. I've noticed it's quite common to have several outside guard dogs as well as hire protection from an armed response team; though the lab and the Rhodesian Ridgeback seem much more likely to lick you to pieces! Rhodesian Ridgebacks were actually developed in South Africa to hunt lions, and have a very unique 'mohawk' in which the fur on their back forms a ridge. This evening, I was pleaded with by the dogs to play fetch with a log, even though it was raining. Here they are poking their heads through the widow for attention.

   At around 4, I had 'breakfast' which consisted of eggs, bacon (more like fried ham here), and toast with peanut butter (yes, I did bring my own along). It was very good, as is most food here I have eaten. I spent most of the rest of the day, or what was left, sitting outside, talking, and doing things on the computer. I was excited for dinner though, as a braai (barbecue) had been planned. Unfortunately, the high humidity turned into an "electric storm" and boy, did rain pour. The power ended up going out, so I spent some time looking out the window at the storm. Lightning illuminated the entire sky, which I could see a vast expanse of, being in a hilly area where my vision isn't blocked by surrounding houses. The braai eventually did get cooked, and I ate a boerewors (similar to bratwurst) and lamb chops. The power also came back on, and hopefully I'll have another go at the hot tub tonight. 
   I didn't end up going to The Pavilion because I woke up late, though I have already made plans with Teeze to take me to the Victoria Street Market tomorrow where I am hoping of buying a sari.


-Becca

Shopping!

Ok, well I actually didn't get much shopping done, though I did spend a good seven hours at the mall. Apparently, Hillcrest is known for its shopping and rightfully so. Along with a couple of other hostel guests, I visited The Pavilion (one of the biggest malls in the Southern Hemisphere).

(Image provided by Wcities) The place was packed! I spent my day with a British couple from the hostel, though I did go to several shops by myself. My first stop was the mobile phone store. According to South African law, each cell must be registered to a person and an address, and this takes some time. In short, I have a phone, but it doesn't yet work. Surprisingly, this seemingly simple task that would have taken me 15 mins in the US, took up 75% of my time at the mall. The remaining portion of the time I spent following around the British couple and at the grocers. I found a nice adapter for around $6, sunsilk shampoo for $3, and biltong (a sort of South African beef jerky). Unfortunately for me, everyone else in the store seemed to be buying a months worth of produce for 20 people, so I had to jump out of line early to meet back up with my companions after waiting for 30 mins. I have noticed much of my time is spent waiting, especially for shopping/services. These kinds of waits would be unheard of in the US, as no doubt the consumers would start some sort of a riot. Even I had some difficulty remaining calm in line to get my phone.
   After a lunch of KFC, we decided to head back to the hostel. The British couple had been traveling for 6 months, and had made their way down to South Africa in the process. They were backpackers, and extremely nice. Instead of calling Teeze to come back and get us, we decided to take one of the taxi-buses used by the local blacks, though often spoken of as being very unsafe by the white population. I definitely would not have done it if alone, though I felt comfortable enough with two other people with me, and the ride went very smoothly. We had to make a connection in Pinetown near a street market. There were great crowds everywhere, though me and my friends were the only white people for blocks. I seemed to be of special interest to passers-by, wearing a simple wrap dress which I heard several women comment I must be freezing in. Of course, used to cold Ohio winters, I wasn't, but rather enjoying the nice breeze. I had never really been a visible minority before, though it wasn't as if I received ill treatment. Most everyone, especially the men and young boys, would smile and say "Sawubona" (pronounced like sow as in a pig, bone, ahh) which is "Hello" or literally, "I see you". Being in a poorer part of town, we were of course cautious, though nothing happened and we arrived back at the hostel safe and sound.
   I had had a long day, and tried to take a nap, though both Teeze and another one of my roommates kept asking me if I was ok, and seemed shocked that I didn't want anything to eat. Rather groggily, I finally gave in to their niggling, and sat down for a dinner of pasta in salad. I was again bugged until I consented to remain up and socialize and sit in the hot tub, which was really quite nice, especially when Teeze added the bubble bath. Having showered, I now sit in my bed listening to the techno music being blasted upstairs, and watching the twinkling lights of Durban from my window.  Hopefully tomorrow, I will finally get my phone working, and get my adapter and such.

-Becca

Here...Finally!

Well goodness, I feel as if I left home forever ago! I have decided that it should be illegal to subject people to sit in cramped air plane seats next to grumpy racist women, especially on a 18 hour flight. While I got through the flight business just fine, I did have a run in with an airport 'guide' who helped me check my bags in, and find my gate. He of course wanted a tip, and I obliged, though I got a bit miffed when he tried to get me to give him a 20 dollar bill for 20 R in change (less than 2 dollars). Arriving at Durban, I somehow missed the person who was supposed to pick me up and take me to the hostel. I waited for awhile, trying not to panic. That didn't work so well, seeing as I was in another country, at 11 at night, and had almost no way to contact people. Luckily, I had skype installed on my computer, and was able to arrange things through their phone service, technology saved me once again.
   I ended up staying last night at a nearby hotel. I thought it was just alright, and pretty disappointed that I hadn't made it to the hostel, though that was before I looked out my window and saw the beach across the street. This morning I went for an early beach walk, it was wonderful! Although humid, Durban feels nice and warm, especially compared to the cold Ohio winter. On the beach, I enjoyed the wind as well as the singing of a group of Zulu women. I looked for beach life, but I didn't find much more than various mollusks. On my way back to the hotel, I was approached by two guys who asked if I knew of any nearby places they could get a drink. Besides the fact that it was 6 in the morning, I didn't know anything to help them. Along the way, we eventually found them a bar, and the offered to buy me a drink. I declined, laughed, and continued walking. One of the guys decided that he was going to be stubborn, and walked all the way back to the hotel with me. He was persistent, but not annoyingly so, finally giving up at the door telling the doorman to "take care of this beautiful lady".

(The view from my hotel window)

    I eventually got in contact with my hostel and after some more confusion, Teeze came to pick me up. He is one of the owners and extremely nice, as is the hostel itself. It's located in somewhat of a gated community, and is just beautiful. I also like the fact that it is home to a cat, bird, and two dogs, making it even more so welcoming. Since I got in too late to buy the cell phone and power adapter I had been counting on, I was lucky to find a backpacker nice enough to lend me his power adapter so that I could charge my laptop. I have noticed how friendly everyone is here, people always say hi on the street, and I have talked to several people that seem genuinely interested in my travels and ways to help me.


Becca