Victoria Street Market

   To give you an idea as to how it feels to walk around in Durban, imagine you are a celebrity. Everyone looks at you, some approach and try to start a conversation, some are too nervous to approach but talk about you in hushed voices. You get compliments wherever you go, especially from the men, things such as "Hello beautiful,"  "Pretty dress my lady," and "I love your hair!"  I was instantly recognized as an American, with my light skin, blonde hair, sunglasses, and blue eyes. I got several calls of "Hello baby! Beautiful, come inside, I know you must be from America!" Somehow, none of the comments I received the entire day carried the same inappropriate undertones usually present in the comments I receive from American men, rather they seemed friendly, even if their motive was to get me to buy something.
   The market is certainly something to see, and smell! The streets, both sides, for several blocks, are lined with stalls and shops. There were fruit stalls, vegetable stalls, clothing stalls, wholesale stalls, as well as several stalls that contained various animal body parts such as hooves, skulls, skins, and buckets of organs. One of the nearby buildings contained a fish and meat market. The smell was very overpowering, and the sights a bit shocking. I saw many types of fish, cuts of meat, and also several less appetizing things such as tripe and intact goat heads. Needless to say, I only spent a few brief minutes inside. Also common were grocery stores which I quite enjoyed browsing. Throughout the day, I purchased a flavored water, water, a strange chocolate bar, wafer cookies, and frosted flakes (called frosties here, but Tony the tiger is still on the box!). I wanted to buy a mango, but didn't fancy trying to eat the fruit while walking around, so I settled on some nectarines instead (4 for 5 rand, about 75 cents).
   My original reason for wanting to go to the market was to buy an Indian sari, which I am happy to say I accomplished. There were several shops selling saris, but I finally settled on "The Sari Experts." Inside, as most shops I have visited here, I was followed as if by a hawk. There was a large selection, but I finally settled on a very pretty purple pattern for only 129 R (around 17 dollars). Little did I know, they don't actually sell the cholis (the cropped bloused that go under the sari) but that they give you enough fabric to make one. Because of this, I also bought a choli lining, and plan to get it made at home, or maybe even in Yellowwood if I can find a good seamstress.
   Along with the fish and meat market,  there was also an indoor craft market which contained the typical African tourist crafts. I was interested in the beadwork though I thought I might be able to get a bit cheaper elsewhere. I did however end up buying a beautiful painting of elephants walking.

 The Indian woman running the shop was very nice, and gave me a reasonable price to start off with, whereas the previous stalls I had gone to would start insanely high and go down "to give me a special deal." I ended up paying 25 R (around 3 dollars) and am very happy with it. I plan to buy several more paintings as gifts, and to decorate my room. The colors are so vivid and beautiful, I was very happy with my purchase.
   Before going the market, I was cautioned by Teeze  not to carry much money, or a visible bag. I had also heard stories of theft and mugging in that area, so I was quite cautious and brought my moneybelt and passport pouch with just some chapstick and a bit of money. By the end of the day though, I felt very comfortable and safe, everyone was friendly and I felt no threats at all. Of course, I was followed several times by men trying to start a conversation and show me around, though they were not overly clingy and easy to shake off if I wanted to. I was also grabbed by the hand once by a hawker, though I quickly walked away and he did not follow. I enjoyed talking to the shop owners, as well as various other people on the streets. I carried on a 20 minute conversation with a  two year old boy who knew little English, though was very talkative (in Zulu) and endearing. I ended up giving him one of my wafer cookies and he gave me the biggest, brightest smile. I wish I would not have been afraid to take my camera as there were so many things I wanted to take pictures of.
   Tonight is my last night at the hostel, and I arranged to meet my mentor at the Pinetown spar tomorrow for my trip to CROW. I am sad to leave, as I have felt very comfortable and happy here, though I am excited for the next part of my trip and getting to work with the animals.

-Becca